In both character and geography VIRGINIA BEACH is about halfway between Maryland's huge, frenzied Ocean City and North Carolina's untamed open Outer Bank. Virginia's only real summer resort has grown to become the largest city in the state, but takes care to pitch itself as a family destination; among steps to deter the Spring Break crowd, Virginia Beach - home to evangelist/politician Pat Robertson's Regent College - has enacted anti-cruising laws that make it illegal to drive past the same spot twice within three hours. That said, the oceanfront vicinity can be a monument to tackiness, and there are several testosterone-filled surfer bars. Fortunately a multimillion dollar program to widen the beach keeps it from getting too sardine-like and the overall lazy atmosphere actually leads some to stay longer than planned.
The city's focus is its long straight sandy beach, lined with all the usual hotels and motels, and backed by a boardwalk strip of bars, restaurants and nightclubs. The forty-block downtown area is too spread out to walk the length of, but you should find all you need within a smaller radius, as it's fairly homogenous. During the day, the main activities are sunbathing and playing in the waves; Virginia Beach is one of the main east coast surfing centers, hosting the summer-long Billabong competitions. You can rent surf, skim and boogie boards from Wave Riding Vehicles, at 19th and Cypress (tel 757/422-8823). Away from the sands, most of the action is along Atlantic Avenue, the main beachfront drag.
High-tech interactive exhibits and an IMAX theater combine at the Virginia Marine Museum , 717 General Booth Blvd (daily: mid-June to early-Sept 9am-9pm; rest of year 9am-5pm; $9.95, or $14.95 with IMAX show; ), which features all things aquatic, from submarines to seabirds, and has a pleasant nature trail linking its two main buildings. The museum organizes regular dolphin-watching expeditions in summer ($17; reserve a day in advance at 757/437-BOAT).
